Nainital is one lake in a district of them, and the three worth knowing are all within 25 km: Bhimtal, larger than Naini and far quieter; Sattal, a cluster of interconnected lakes in dense forest that is among the best birding sites in north India; and Naukuchiatal, the nine-cornered lake, the deepest of the group. Travellers who find Nainital's Mall Road crowded — which in season it is — generally find that staying at one of these and visiting Nainital for a day is the better arrangement.
The problem with Nainital in season
Nainital is a beautiful lake in a bowl of hills, and in May, June and the holiday weekends it is extremely busy. Mall Road becomes a slow-moving crowd, parking is a genuine ordeal, and boat queues are long.
None of that is a reason to avoid the town — the lake, the Naina Devi temple and the ropeway to Snow View are worth a day. It is a reason to consider sleeping elsewhere, and the elsewhere is twenty minutes down the hill.
| Lake | From Nainital | What it is for |
|---|---|---|
| Naini | — | The town, the Mall, boating, ropeway; busiest |
| Bhimtal | about 22 km | Largest; island restaurant; quiet, good base |
| Sattal | about 23 km | Seven linked lakes in forest; birding, kayaking |
| Naukuchiatal | about 26 km | Deepest; nine corners; paragliding, calm water |
Bhimtal
Bhimtal is larger than Naini and has an island at its centre with a restaurant and a small aquarium reached by boat. The town around it is ordinary — this is not a resort — and that is precisely the appeal: the lake is uncrowded, the boating is unhurried, and there is a dam at one end with a walk along it.
It makes the best base of the three because it has the most accommodation at the widest range of prices, and because it is the closest to the road back to Nainital.
Sattal, which is the special one
Sattal is seven small lakes linked together in thick oak and pine forest, and it is the one visitors remember. The water is green, the forest comes down to the edge, and there is very little development.
It is one of the better birding locations in northern India. Serious birders come specifically for it — the forest holds a long list of Himalayan species, and several local guides specialise in finding them. Even without any interest in birds, the walk around the lakes is the best hour in the Kumaon lake district.
Kayaking and canoeing operate on the main lakes, and because of the forest enclosure the water is usually glassy.
Naukuchiatal
Naukuchiatal means the lake of nine corners, and local belief holds that anyone who can see all nine at once attains moksha. It is the deepest of the group at around 40 m.
It is quieter than Bhimtal and better for water activity — paragliding operates from the ridge above it, and the lake is calm enough for comfortable boating most days. There is a handful of good lakeside places to stay.
What still needs the town
Nainital proper is worth one day from any of these bases. The Naina Devi temple on the north shore is a Shakti Peetha and an active, busy shrine. The ropeway to Snow View at about 2,270 m gives the Himalayan panorama on a clear day — it queues badly, so go early. Naina Peak, the highest point, is a walk or a pony ride and has the better view for anyone willing to earn it.
The Mall Road and the boats on Naini are the thing everybody does, and they are pleasant outside peak hours.
When to come
March to June is the main season and also the busiest — this is the Delhi summer escape and the roads up show it. September to November is the better window: clear air, the best Himalayan visibility of the year, and far fewer people.
December to February is cold with occasional snow and very quiet. Monsoon brings landslide risk on the approach roads and is best avoided.
From Delhi it is about 300 km and six to seven hours; Kathgodam is the railhead, 35 km below Nainital, with the lakes slightly closer. A vehicle is necessary — the lakes are spread out and public transport between them is thin.
Questions people ask
Which Kumaon lake should I stay at?
Bhimtal for the widest choice of accommodation and the easiest access; Sattal if forest and birds appeal; Naukuchiatal for quiet water and paragliding.
Is Sattal good for birdwatching?
It is one of the better sites in northern India, with local guides who specialise in it. The forest enclosure also makes it the prettiest of the group.
How far are the lakes from Nainital?
All within 22 to 26 km, roughly half an hour on hill roads. Staying at one and visiting Nainital for a day works well in season.
When is Nainital least crowded?
September to November — clear air, the best Himalayan views of the year and far fewer people than the May-June peak.
